The humble gyoza is a fickle dish: subtle kitchen alchemy that turns flour starch and farmyard meats into something wonderful or something woeful. And when a Tokyo gyoza kitchen gets it right, they close ranks and keep their recipe quiet. The cut of pork, the breed of chicken, the seasonality of herbs. We took an Australian celebrity chef over there (we can’t say who just yet, but let’s just call him “The Enigma”) to eat and decode the gyoza in the best of Tokyo’s kitchens. He returned with a notebook of recipes that are sure to make Harajuku Gyoza the best gyoza in Brisbane. Meanwhile in Tokyo, “The Enigma” is no longer welcome.