The little steamed dumplings you sometimes see on sushi trains? They’re the ones that rarely make it far along the track before someone takes the plate. There never seems to be enough of these little dumplings to go around. And they’re rarely made well. Traditionally, the fine pastry wrappers and meaty, fresh porky filling are steamed to melt in your mouth goodness on top but here’s the real surprise: They’re then grilled crunchy on the bottom. It’s the magic of two textures in one dumpling. On a trip to Tokyo a few years ago, we discovered small restaurants devoted entirely to the art of making this form of good, simple, tasty steamed and grilled gyoza. And that’s pretty much all they had on the menu, apart from beer. What a revelation. When we sat down for the first time in one of these gyoza-specialist restaurants we felt strangely free. For the first time we didn’t have to be polite and leave some gyoza for the other guests. We could just order away to our heart’s content. No wonder these places were packed.